By our second summer living aboard, we had officially “retired” from our day jobs and needed to save money on our boat insurance. So we opted to skip hurricane season in Florida and head north. The obvious route? Take the ICW and see the sights, of course!
And that’s how we began our love affair with this long stretch of water that connects the Chesapeake Bay with Florida and beyond. Here’s a look at some of the things that surprised us Floridians on that first trip and that keep us going back for more every year.
7 Things that Always Surprise Us on the ICW
The ICW, or the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, is a watery highway of sorts that runs from mile marker zero in Portsmouth, Virginia, to mile 1,243 in Key West, Florida. Boaters can travel on protected waters through a series of canals and rivers for most of its length. Along the way, they’ll pass through only a few well-known cities and many more small towns.
Surprise! It’s Not At All Like Florida!
This is a big one for us. We’re Floridians, and not just because we legally live in Green Cove Springs.
Before cruising, we lived and worked all over southeast Florida. The ICW we knew was a narrow concrete channel lined with towering condo buildings and awash with frothing and churning powerboat wakes. Almost none of the natural shoreline exists there anymore.
Not only that, but every two miles or so, there was a scheduled bridge that opened on the hour and half-hour, or sometimes on the quarter or third of the hour.
Heading north, the ICW changes into the wide and natural Indian River Lagoon in central Florida. North Florida gradually shifts to tidal marshes, and the winding creeks of the Georgia and South Carolina Low Country are delightful. There are few homes along the edges and miles and miles of grasses, birds, and dolphins.
There are parts in the Carolinas that will make you think of Florida. I’m looking at you, Myrtle and Wrightsville Beaches. Thankfully these are short stretches and are the exception, not the rule. Once in the sounds of eastern North Carolina, there are wide open spaces and even great sailing! Who knew? Dorothy, we’re not in Florida anymore!
Cute ICW Port Towns!
The next item struck us the first time we arrived in St. Augustine by boat. We have avoided that town for years. It’s a Florida tourist trap, as any local will tell you. It’s crowded, and the traffic is just awful. I stand by this description if a land-lubber asks.
But arriving by water is entirely different. The city is beautiful and alive. The city marina and mooring field are right downtown, and you can walk everywhere you need without a car. Strolling the streets of Old Town without the frustration of driving and finding parking? An amazing experience.
Perhaps even better is seeing the town as it originally was–connected only to the water. If you remove the endless miles of strip malls and gridlocked highway on US 1 (“Useless 1,” as us Floridians call it), then the town is fun.
Once we realized how different the experience of visiting Saint Augustine was by water, we started to see the phenomenon repeat itself everywhere we went. The small towns and cities that dot the ICW can all be visited by car. But arriving by boat is nothing short of magical.
Boat-Only Destinations!
And then there are the places that you can’t even get to by car! Cumberland Island, Georgia, or Cape Lookout, North Carolina, are two examples, but there are tons more. Everywhere you look, there are places and tiny islands that are only accessible by boat.
Beautiful Intracoastal Waterway Sidetrips!
Many cruisers see the ICW as a highway, much like they do I-95 in their cars. It’s the route between destinations.
That’s the wrong way to look at things by our thinking. The ICW is a destination in itself to be enjoyed. But it’s also got tons of wonderful side trips to enjoy.
If you stay on the magenta line for 1,000 miles and never get off the highway to explore, you’re going to miss so much!
Some of our favorite places are off of the magenta line. Ocracoke, Cape Lookout, and New Bern, all in North Carolina, are three examples. And those three happen to be three of our all-time favorite spots.
Friendly Surprises along the Waterway!
One time, we pulled into a large anchorage near Belhaven, North Carolina. It was the off-season, and the only other boats on the waterway were small fishing boats. As soon as I set the hook, a small powerboat raced over at full throttle.
As any true-blood Florida native, I braced for an uncomfortable encounter. I had undoubtedly anchored too close to his house and blocked his view. I had probably encroached on his fishing spot. Whatever it was, I was sure that some stupidness would follow.
Instead, the locals welcomed us to North Carolina and shared some beer. They even offered land access if we needed to walk our dog!
Years later, a similar experience occurred near Beaufort. The main anchorage was overcrowded, so we anchored in a small creek behind some houses.
After a few days, a local came by and complimented our boat and asked us about our journey. They then offered the use of their dock to get ashore. To this day, we have been surprised by the kindness of most locals. Outside of Florida.
Culinary Surprises Along the ICW!
There are some genuinely amazing restaurants along the way. We’d like to point you towards Bay Leaf Indian restaurant in New Bern, Dajio Pizza on Ocracoke, or Hola Cuban Cafe in Fernandina Beach.
These spots keep us coming back year after year because they’re delicious and locally run. Some towns, like New Bern and Fernandina Beach, have so many tasty options that it’s impossible to choose a favorite. We love to visit restaurants with outdoor dog-friendly patios so we can soak in the town’s culture. Traveling with your dog? Check out my post about taking your dog on the ICW.
The ICW is certainly not the place to go for chain restaurants or fast food. Nearly all of the towns you will find have unique restaurants. The quality varies considerably, but the experience is always one-of-a-kind.
Make Your Own Adventure!
Finally, another thing that consistently surprises us along the ICW is how boaters can always find a unique way to experience it.
Some folks roll marina to marina, never staying on the hook or away from civilization.
Others don’t touch land at all between their departure and destination, save for the occasional fuel fill-up.
Between these two extremes, there is an infinite number of ways to experience this lovely American waterway.
Travel the ICW with Confidence
Curious about traveling the ICW in your own boat? Check out Waterway Guide’s Tour of the ICW.
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